Today we met an acquaintance from last March for lunch at a mexican joint. Mexican food is harder to find here than one might think. We had a couple of cervezas and bought her lunch as she was leaving Cuenca in a couple of days for Cotacachi, probably our second choice for a spot to live in Ecuador. It’s not that well known outside of Ecuador, but is one of the cooler places to live for those who have explored the country.
Afterwards we hit the “Prohibited Museum” a weird little dark goth art place that the city has been trying to shutdown for some time without success. It was closed the last time we visited. Most of the work was done by a single artist. Not really my taste. View at your own risk.
My current project is trying to organize all the various bookmarks and notes I made on learning Spanish into some sort of coherent track. More on that later.
we didn’t get around much yesterday, but didn’t have to move very far to witness bonfires in the middle of neighborhood streets and impromptu fireworks launched everywhere. We had planned to hook up with some people we knew and hit the town for revelry but decided to lay low instead and let miko’s leg heal. the plan seemed to work as today we took a long, beautiful walk on mostly deserted streets and she’s back to cruising speed.
the tiendas, most restaurants and businesses were closed. people were at home with their families. the weather was perfect, cool, a light breeze, occasionally the sun peeked out and mixed warmth with the cool currents of air. We walked along the Tomebamba then cut up to downtown and found a cafe that was open and had some ice coffees with lunch. word of the day: contraseña as in “tiene la contraseña para el wifi?” to get the password for the cafe’s public wifi. (which was “conbuencafe” btw)
after that we went up to check a missing piece in our logistics puzzle. Our stay here ends the 7th, the place I’m thinking is the long term solution starts April 1st. Contact with the “gap” provider was a bit problematic over email, so we walked by to pay a visit in person. The complication was the 17th of January where they had everything booked, for that single day. What we worked out was we move there for a month to month starting the 7th, we move out the 17th (they put our stuff in temp storage), spend the night in a hotel a block down the street and come back the 18th and continue until end of March. We’ve got it all worked out now….i’m pretty sure :)~ We will look at the April 1st place this Sunday to see if it will work. it’s a pretty sweet setup if it does.
so just a quick word about the toilets and this missive is complete for today. this place we’re staying now has old plumbing. not uncommon here, a little weird, you throw the toilet paper in a wastebasket beside the toilet rather than in the toilet. and there’s a little potpourri type pot running all the time to mitigate the smell, but it kind of added to the problem. I don’t know what brujo mixture of stuff they had in there, but it looked like at least 6 different types of strange plants which combine to produce a smell akin to stinky socks. so I dumped it, refilled it with water and dosed it with some essential oil (lemon) and (to me) this works much better!
and here’s the only picture I took today on our walk.
now it’s serious. this language learning stuff. we’d been messing around, 30 minutes a day going through a program for a while, since last October and it’s now December, of the following year. the pimsleur stuff is fun, we focused just on the auditory, the dialogs, trying to pick up the grammar by osmosis. “I wanted to rent the monkey yesterday” … I can totally say that. but it wasn’t very useful asking for toilet paper at the local tienda. and why is toilet paper so hard to frigg’in remember (papel higiénico) Then asking for matches… cerilla, while technically correct I guess in mexico and central america but prompted a confused look and then a flash bulb of “ah, el fósforo?!” Which is cool, and created a similar flashbulb in my own cabeza cause the head of a match is actually made of phosphorous. we’re at a frustrating stage where sometimes we know what to say and it doesn’t come out and of course sometimes we do and because our accents are pretty good (a nice side effect of a pure audio learning track) we feel good for a second and then get lambasted by a response or question that is unparseable.
yesterday at the laundry mat was a complete disaster. lesson learned: need to build up some contextual vocabulary.
we’ve got until the 7th to find other accommodations. I was thinking we might like this place, sight unseen, and extend it to make our search for more permanent residence more languid but it doesn’t really match us well. Although the Tomebamba river is only 10 meters or so from our kitchen and bedroom window and there is a nice little commons area with rampant and diverse vegetation. But I may have negotiated us a nice place beginning in April, we meet to see it this Sunday. Then have to figure out the between.
We’ve been here two days now. Shopped a bit for food…great, rich tasting bananas from the mercado (a big open flea market of meat and produce, sans fleas. Or flies even.) Went to a mini-mart type place for some things like milk and eggs (unrefridgerated of course?) then hit some tiendas for water and finally a big supermaxi today where gringos and rich Ecuadorians go for the good stuff, like peanut butter. Pasta de mani (aka good old peanut paste)
tonight is new years eve. later we may head out and cross the mighty Tomebamba to Plaza del Otorongo, our range is somewhat limited for a day or two as miko sprained her leg yesterday when she missed a step. I almost did the same last March on our reconnaissance trip at the top of a long flight of stone steps. The terrain here is notoriously unpredictable.
I saw a lot of fat purple grapes for sell all over the place. Evidently one is supposed to eat 12 of them before midnight to ensure a prosperous year follows. In the southern US it’s black eyed peas, in Japan it’s toshi koshi soba. I suppose if you wanted a global guarantee you’d be eating a lot of strange stuff tonight midnight.